Stem Cell-Derived Exosomes in Cosmetics: Are They the Next Big Thing in Regenerative Beauty

By Marzia KhanReviewed by Lauren Hardaker

With the rising trend in regenerative beauty, stem cell-derived exosomes in cosmetics have gained interest in cosmetic dermatology due to their potential benefits.¹

Image credit: Andriiii/Shutterstock.com

What are Stem Cell-Derived Exosomes?

Exosomes are small membrane-bound vesicles, typically 30-150 nm, which are naturally released from cells into the extracellular space and contain bioactive molecules, including proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids. These structural compounds have great potential for therapeutic applications in regenerative medicine, with significant roles in cell communication, tissue repair, and regeneration.¹

Exosomes can be secreted by almost every cell type, including fibroblasts, macrophages, mesenchymal stem cells, and even tumor cells; they can also be found in various bodily fluids, such as amniotic fluid, milk, urine, cerebrospinal fluid, blood, and saliva.²

With the continuous journey into the newest and most effective skincare interventions and the increased demand for non-surgical aesthetic methods, exosomes have been investigated as a topical and injectable option.¹

Current Applications in the Beauty Industry

Aging

A significant skincare concern for the global population is aging.²

Skin aging occurs from internal and external factors, with intrinsic aging being determined by genes, impacting age dependence and natural aging, while external aging is from environmental factors, known as photoaging.²

Exosome use in topical and transdermal applications offers a promising route for targeted delivery of their regenerative effects.³ Evidence on exosomes from human-induced pluripotent stem cells has shown statistically significant inhibition of aging of human skin fibroblasts (HDFs), which is significant as within the dermis, fibroblasts, and the extracellular matrix (ECM) are vital indicators of skin youth.²

Skin aging is characterized by the fragmentation of collagen fibrils and the decrease in the synthesis of collagen types I and III. Collagen is vital as one of the most important proteins within the ECM, providing tissues a fuller and more youthful appearance. However, aging fibroblasts have a reduced capability for proliferation and synthesis and cannot produce enough collagen. Additionally, high expression of matrix metalloenzymes speeds up collagen decomposition, which gradually results in the external presentation of skin aging, such as through wrinkles and other effects.²

A meta-analysis on exosomes in cosmetics has also shown improved mean skin elasticity by up to 15% and wrinkle depth reduction of 10-15% over eight to twelve weeks in treated groups. Exosomes also promote collagen synthesis through transferring growth factors such as transforming growth factor-β3 (TGF-β3) and regulatory RNAs to skin cells. Subsequently, this can prevent signs of aging and support tissue homeostasis.¹

Scar Formation

Interestingly, HDFs also hold an important role in scar formation. During wound healing, HDFs differentiate into myofibroblasts, with most myofibroblasts undergoing cell death after wound repair; however, in patients with hypertrophic scars, myofibroblasts are continuously activated for proliferation.²

After an injury, damaged epithelial or endothelial cells are replaced by activated fibroblasts in the process of repair, with fibroblasts that produce excess ECM components such as type I and type II collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid, which results in matrix overgrowth and scarring.²

Exosomes from human adipose mesenchymal stem cells have shown the capability of preventing fibroblasts from differentiating into myofibroblasts, normalizing ECM composition, and reducing scar tissue density in preclinical rodent models.² This enabled regulation in ratios of various intracellular components, including collagen type III to collagen type I, TGF-β3:TGF-β1, and MMP3 to matrix metalloproteinase tissue inhibitor-1 (TIMP-1). This ultimately stimulated the reestablishment of the ECM in dermal wound repair.²

With scarless healing being the aspired outcome of cosmetic dermatology, research into scar tissue has found that to heal tissue without forming scars, tissues require fine reticular collagen, reduced cross-linking, less inflammation, and fewer myofibroblasts. Additionally, in scar-free tissue, the ratios of type III to type I collagen, TGF-β3 to TGF-β1, and MMPs to TIMPs were higher.²

The potential artificial alteration of ratios of integral ECM components in scar tissue through exosomes may be a good solution for scarless healing.²

Video credit: Thermo Fisher Scientific/youtube.com

Cosmetic Application

Exosomes have been used in topical creams, serums, masks, and other products for therapeutic skin benefits. For example, experimentation of exosomes from mesenchymal stem cells from human umbilical cord blood on human skin samples in an ex vivo 21-day model has been observed to upregulate genes relating to the skin’s ECM and contribute to skin rejuvenation.³

Notably, approved exosomes are derived from plants and usually bovine sources and may not have the same effect as stem cells.⁴ However, exosomes derived from cabbage and red cabbage have been found to inhibit inflammation and apoptosis, protecting against stress.⁵

Additionally, exosomes from the bark of the aloe vera plant suppress many inflammatory cytokines and reduce myofibroblast differentiation while increasing collagen capacity, which can reduce signs of aging and aid in scarless healing.^2,5 This demonstrates that although most research on exosomes is associated with those derived from stem cells with high efficacy, plant-derived exosomes may also be effective.^1,2,5

An interview with an aesthetics doctor, Dr Shotter, in Marie Claire, a fashion and beauty magazine, has also stated that topical applications offer limited benefit, such as hydration, barrier support, and mild brightening. However, she continued, “These products do not penetrate deeply enough to match in-clinic results and are not effective for treating significant aging, deep wrinkles, acne, or hair loss.”⁴

Regulatory and Safety Considerations

Regulation of exosome treatments may not be the same everywhere, with a regulatory challenge for exosomes being their source, as the only exosomes approved for use in the UK are those from plant and animal-derived sources.⁴

It is illegal in the UK for anything of human origin to be used in a commercially available product; however, these products are being illegally distributed in the UK and carry a risk for transmission of viruses and diseases.⁴ The UK Medicines and Healthcare Products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) has stated that any injectable exosome preparation of human origin is considered a medicine and requires full marketing authorisation before sale or administration.

With high concerns about the health implications of unregulated and illegal exosome treatments, calls for tighter regulations have been emphasized.⁴

Challenges

The effect of exosomes depends on a high concentration in the targeted area, and due to this, most applications use an injectable delivery method. Its rapid clearance rate can also be challenging for those who want a lasting impact; however, novel materials loaded with exosomes may overcome this obstacle. For example, exosomes loaded in an alginate-based hydrogel were used to protect the repair of a dermal wound in an animal model, leading to a 32% faster wound closure rate than untreated controls and improved collagen synthesis and formation of integral vessels in the affected area.²

Additionally, with unregulated exosomes also being on the market, it may be a challenge to regulate these products, as injectables are becoming more readily available in the cosmetic space, with minimal training required for anyone who wants to become an injector.^4,6 This may mean injectors do not know the exosomes within the products, or where they were derived from, and how to mitigate any adverse effects. It is essential to go to a well-established, qualified clinic for any injectables and ensure due diligence is carried out.⁶

Future Outlook

With regenerative aesthetics on the rise, research into exosome technology, ideal sources, stability, and the combination of membrane-bound compounds may also be explored for the next popular trend to stop the clock on aging.^1,2

The European Medicines Agency (EMA) and other regulatory bodies also develop frameworks for extracellular vesicle-based products. This may pave the way for legal, standardized, and clinically proven exosome therapies to enter the cosmetic market within the next five to ten years.

References

1. Villarreal-Gómez, L.J., Origel-Lucio, S., Hernández-Hernández, D.A. and Pérez-González, G.L., (2025). Use of exosomes for cosmetics applications. Cosmetics, 12(1), p.9. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010009

2. Shen, X., Song, S., Chen, N., Liao, J. and Zeng, L., (2021). Stem cell‐derived exosomes: A supernova in cosmetic dermatology. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(12), pp.3812-3817. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14438

3. Sreeraj, H., AnuKiruthika, R., Tamilselvi, K.S. and Subha, D., (2024). Exosomes for skin treatment: Therapeutic and cosmetic applications. Nano TransMed, 3, p.100048. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ntm.2024.100048

4. Abbersteen, L., (2025). Derms are obsessed with exosomes for skin rejuvenation – here’s what you need to know. Marie Claire UK, 7 July. Available at: https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/beauty/skincare/what-are-exosomes [Accessed 3 August 2025].

5. Karabay, A.Z., Barar, J., Hekmatshoar, Y. and Rahbar Saadat, Y., (2025). Multifaceted therapeutic potential of plant-derived exosomes: Immunomodulation, anticancer, anti-aging, anti-melanogenesis, detoxification, and drug delivery. Biomolecules, 15(3), p.394. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom15030394

6. Rackham, A., (2025). Warning over fillers and Botox being offered in public toilets. BBC News, 18 June. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c17wgz78pp2o [Accessed 3 August 2025].